Standing seam metal siding
INSTALLATION GUIDE

STANDING SEAM
WALL CLADDING

A complete guide to installing standing seam metal panels as exterior wall cladding. The same panels used for roofing deliver a striking modern aesthetic on walls — with hidden fasteners, clean lines, and decades of maintenance-free performance.

WHY STANDING SEAM SIDING?

Standing seam panels are increasingly popular as wall cladding for residential and commercial buildings. The vertical lines create a bold, contemporary look that pairs beautifully with wood, concrete, and glass. When your walls match your roof, the entire building reads as a unified, intentional design.

HIDDEN FASTENERS

Standing seam panels interlock and are secured with concealed clips. No exposed screws, no visible fasteners — just clean, uninterrupted lines from foundation to soffit.

WEATHER BARRIER

The interlocking seam design sheds water naturally. Combined with a weather-resistant barrier underneath, standing seam siding provides exceptional protection against rain, snow, and wind-driven moisture.

THERMAL PERFORMANCE

Metal siding reflects radiant heat in summer and can be installed over continuous insulation for excellent thermal performance. The air gap behind panels adds an additional ventilation layer.

FIRE RESISTANT

Non-combustible steel cladding provides a critical fire barrier for your home. In wildfire-prone areas of BC, metal siding can be the difference between a home that survives and one that does not.

20+ COLOR OPTIONS

Available in SMP and PVDF (Kynar 500) finishes with 20+ standard colors. Match your siding to your roof, your fence, or create a striking contrast. Panels are also paintable for custom colors.

CUSTOM LENGTHS

Panels are fabricated on-site to the exact length of your wall — no horizontal joints, no seams, no potential leak points. One continuous panel from bottom to top.

TRIM-FIRST METHOD

INSTALLATION STEPS

Standing seam wall cladding uses a "trim-first" approach — all perimeter trim is installed before any panels go up. This ensures clean terminations at every edge, window, door, and corner. Panels can be installed vertically (most common) or horizontally depending on your design preference.

01

PREPARE THE SUBSTRATE

Ensure the wall sheathing (plywood or OSB) is in good condition and properly fastened. Install a weather-resistant barrier (Tyvek HomeWrap or equivalent) over the entire wall surface, overlapping seams by 6 inches minimum. Tape all seams and around window/door openings. This barrier is your primary moisture defense — the metal panels are the rain screen.

02

INSTALL DRIP EDGE AT BASE

Starting at the bottom of the wall, install a metal drip edge along the foundation line. This trim piece directs any moisture that reaches the back of the panels away from the foundation. The drip edge should extend past the foundation by at least 1 inch and be level across the entire wall.

03

INSTALL J-CHANNEL PERIMETER TRIM

Install J-channel (also called J-mold) around all perimeters: along the top of the wall at the soffit line, around every window and door opening, and at any wall termination points. J-channel receives the cut edges of panels and creates a clean, finished look. Use a level to ensure all horizontal trim is straight.

04

PRE-FABRICATE CORNER TRIM

For outside corners, pre-fabricate corner trim by bending two J-channels back-to-back at 90 degrees using a hand brake or Wuko bender. For inside corners, a single bent piece works. Install corner trim plumb using a level. Corners are the most visible detail — take extra care to get them straight and tight.

05

INSTALL PANELS — BOTTOMS FIRST

Starting at one corner, slide the first panel into the corner trim and engage the bottom into the drip edge. Secure the panel to the wall sheathing using concealed clips at 24-inch intervals. The key technique: install all panel bottoms first across the entire wall before securing the tops. This ensures a straight, consistent bottom line. Use a string line as a reference.

06

ENGAGE SEAMS AND SECURE TOPS

Each subsequent panel interlocks with the previous one via the standing seam. Snap or press the male leg of the new panel over the female leg of the installed panel. Once all panels are in place with bottoms aligned, secure the tops into the J-channel at the soffit line. Use a Wuko bender to make the 90-degree bend at the top of each panel to tuck into the J-channel.

07

CUT AND FIT AROUND OPENINGS

For windows and doors, measure carefully and cut panels to fit around the openings. Use tin snips or a nibbler for clean cuts. Bend the panel edges 90 degrees with a Wuko bender to tuck into the J-channel around the opening. Apply sealant around all window and door perimeters and at any utility penetrations (hose bibs, electrical boxes, vents).

08

FINAL DETAILS AND SEALANT

Apply color-matched sealant at all trim-to-panel junctions, around penetrations, and at any cut edges. Touch up any scratches with manufacturer-supplied touch-up paint. Clean panels with a soft cloth and mild detergent to remove any installation debris or fingerprints. Stand back and admire your work.

VERTICAL VS HORIZONTAL

VERTICAL INSTALLATION

The most common orientation for standing seam wall cladding. Vertical panels emphasize height, create a modern aesthetic, and naturally shed water downward along the seams. Each panel runs from the drip edge at the base to the soffit trim at the top — one continuous piece with no horizontal joints.

  • Best for: modern residential, commercial facades, accent walls
  • Water management: excellent (gravity drains along seams)
  • Panel length: wall height (typically 8-12 feet)
  • Visual effect: emphasizes height, clean vertical lines

HORIZONTAL INSTALLATION

Less common but increasingly popular for a distinctive look. Horizontal panels create long, sweeping lines that emphasize the width of a building. Requires additional attention to water management since seams run horizontally and can trap moisture if not properly detailed.

  • Best for: ranch-style homes, long commercial buildings, accent bands
  • Water management: requires careful seam detailing and sealant
  • Panel length: wall width (can be very long for seamless runs)
  • Visual effect: emphasizes width, prairie-style aesthetic

TOOLS & MATERIALS

TOOLS NEEDED

  • Wuko bender (essential for 90-degree panel bends into J-channel)
  • Hand brake or portable metal brake (for trim fabrication)
  • Drill/impact driver with hex bits
  • Tin snips (left, right, and straight cut)
  • Nibbler tool (for clean, long cuts)
  • Tape measure (25-foot minimum)
  • 4-foot level
  • Chalk line and string line
  • Caulking gun and color-matched sealant
  • Ladder or scaffolding (for upper wall access)
  • Safety glasses and cut-resistant gloves
  • Pop rivet gun (for some trim connections)

MATERIALS LIST

  • 12" standing seam metal panels
  • Weather-resistant barrier (Tyvek HomeWrap or equivalent)
  • Drip edge trim (for base of wall)
  • J-channel / J-mold (for all perimeters and openings)
  • Corner trim (inside and outside corners)
  • Soffit receiver trim (for top of wall)
  • Concealed clips (for securing panels to sheathing)
  • Self-drilling screws (stainless steel recommended)
  • Color-matched sealant/caulk
  • Seam tape (for weather barrier overlaps)
  • Touch-up paint (matching panel color)
  • Flashing for window and door heads

IMPORTANT NOTES

  • Trim first, panels second. All J-channel, corner trim, drip edge, and soffit receivers must be installed before any panels go up. Trying to add trim after panels are installed is extremely difficult and results in poor fit.
  • Standing seam is ideal for walls. Our standing seam panels provide excellent stiffness for wall cladding. Walls are more susceptible to denting from impact (ladders, equipment, hail) and the hidden fastener system provides superior resistance compared to exposed-fastener alternatives.
  • Allow for thermal expansion. Metal panels expand and contract with temperature changes. Use slotted clip holes and do not over-tighten fasteners. Panels should be able to move slightly along their length.
  • Never use abrasive cut-off wheels. The heat destroys the protective coating and sparks embed in the finish, causing rust spots. Use tin snips, a nibbler, or a circular saw with a fine-toothed metal blade.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

READY TO CLAD YOUR WALLS?

We fabricate 12-inch standing seam panels on-site in custom lengths and 20+ colors. Match your siding to your roof for a unified look. No job too big or small.